Trat Province

Trat province guards Thailand's eastern Gulf coast, offering an archipelago of over 50 islands that range from the developed Ko Chang to the virtually untouched Ko Kut. Ko Chang, the largest, features a mountainous interior draped in rainforest and ringed with beaches that vary from the lively White Sand Beach to the secluded Lonely Beach. Waterfalls cascade through the jungle interior, and the snorkeling around the southern islands is excellent. For a quieter experience, Ko Mak is a flat, palm-covered island with a handful of family-run resorts and almost no nightlife — just crystalline water and hammocks. Ko Kut, the farthest island, rewards the extra travel time with some of the clearest water in the Gulf of Thailand and a genuine castaway atmosphere. Back on the mainland, Trat Old Town surprises with its charming wooden shophouses, gem markets, and excellent seafood restaurants lining the waterfront.

While most visitors head straight for the islands, Trat's mainland deserves a day or two of exploration. The old town center features atmospheric wooden shophouses dating from the early 20th century, now housing small cafés, guesthouses, and the famous gem market where rubies and sapphires from nearby mines are traded. The morning market along the canal is a feast of tropical fruit, fresh seafood, and southern-style curries. Rent a motorbike and ride to the Ban Tha Ranae mangrove forest for a guided kayak tour through tunnels of twisted roots sheltering crabs, mudskippers, and monitor lizards. The coastal road to Laem Ngop pier passes through sleepy fishing villages where you can stop for grilled squid and watch the boats come in with the day's catch. A visit to the French colonial-era naval battle memorial at Laem Ngop offers a quirky slice of Thai-French history rarely found in guidebooks.