Shanghai

The Bund is the beating heart of Shanghai's identity, a 1.5-kilometer-long waterfront promenade along the western bank of the Huangpu River that showcases one of the most impressive collections of early 20th-century architecture in the world. Fifty-two buildings in Neoclassical, Art Deco, Beaux-Arts, and Gothic styles line the boulevard, relics of Shanghai's era as an international treaty port. Among the most notable are the Fairmont Peace Hotel, with its iconic green pyramid roof and legendary jazz bar, and the former HSBC Building, whose ornate marble lobby and mosaic dome ceiling are open to visitors. Stand at the Bund's railing at dusk, and the view across the river to Pudong's futuristic skyline — the rocket-ship Oriental Pearl Tower, the bottle-opener-shaped Shanghai World Financial Center, and the spiraling 632-meter Shanghai Tower — ranks among the most spectacular urban panoramas on earth. Cross the river via the kitschy but entertaining Bund Sightseeing Tunnel or, better yet, the two-yuan ferry for an atmospheric boat ride. In Pudong, the Shanghai Tower's observation deck on the 118th floor offers vertiginous 360-degree views, while the surrounding Lujiazui financial district pulses with a sleek, almost science-fiction energy. Return to the Bund side for dinner at one of the many rooftop restaurants, where the nightly light show transforms the Pudong skyline into a kaleidoscope of illuminated glass and steel reflected in the dark river waters.

Beyond the headline attractions, Shanghai reveals its most beguiling character in the tree-lined neighborhoods of the former French Concession. Stretching across several districts in the city's southwest, this area was administered by France from the 1840s through the 1940s and retains a distinctly European ambiance, with plane-tree-shaded avenues, wrought-iron balconies, and red-brick lane houses called shikumen. Start on Wukang Road, one of the most photogenic streets in all of China, where a leafy canopy arches over art galleries, independent bookshops, and specialty coffee roasters. The Ferguson Lane complex, housed in a renovated 1930s compound, hosts boutique restaurants and design studios. Nearby, Tianzifang is a warren of narrow alleyways packed with artisan workshops, vintage clothing stores, and tiny bars that spill out onto communal courtyards — a wonderful place to spend a lazy afternoon. For cultural depth, the Propaganda Poster Art Centre, hidden in the basement of a residential tower block, houses a fascinating private collection of Communist-era posters spanning decades. The Xintiandi entertainment district, built around meticulously restored shikumen houses, offers upscale dining and shopping while preserving the architectural character of the old neighborhood. To see the working-class roots of the city, walk along Shaoxing Road or explore the backstreets around Jing'an Temple, where elderly residents still gather in lane houses, hanging laundry between buildings and playing cards on the pavement. These quiet, unscripted moments offer the deepest connection to Shanghai's layered identity as a city perpetually reinventing itself while clinging to the ghosts of its extraordinary past.

Shanghai's culinary landscape is as dynamic and cosmopolitan as the city itself, ranging from humble street-side stalls to some of Asia's most acclaimed fine-dining establishments. The quintessential Shanghai eating experience begins with xiao long bao — soup dumplings — delicate parcels of thin dough encasing a burst of hot, savory broth and seasoned pork. The most celebrated purveyors are Din Tai Fung and Jia Jia Tang Bao, where queues form before opening time. Shanghainese cuisine, or benbang cai, is characterized by rich, sweet-savory flavors achieved through techniques like red braising with soy sauce, sugar, and Shaoxing wine. Signature dishes include hong shao rou (red-braised pork belly), smoked fish, lion's head meatballs, and the iconic hairy crab, available only during the autumn months of October and November and prized for its rich roe and sweet flesh. For street food, head to Yunnan Road or the night markets around Shouning Road for grilled skewers, pan-fried pork buns (sheng jian bao) with crispy bottoms and juicy interiors, and scallion oil noodles fragrant with caramelized shallots. Shanghai's international dining scene is equally impressive, fueled by the city's global population and ambition. Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet, where a multi-sensory tasting menu is paired with immersive projections, sound, and scent, has earned three Michelin stars and is one of the most unique dining experiences in the world. The French Concession brims with Japanese izakayas, Italian trattorias, and innovative fusion restaurants. For a classic Shanghai evening, pair a Bund-side dinner with cocktails at a rooftop bar like Bar Rouge or the Long Bar at the Waldorf Astoria, sipping drinks as the Pudong skyline blazes with light below.